Beneath the turquoise waters of the Bay of Naples lies a city that once served as a retreat for the most powerful people of the ancient world. Baiae – yes, that’s the name – was the Roman equivalent of today’s Monte Carlo, a place where Caesar owned a villa and patricians competed for the grandest residences. Today, you can explore its ruins with a snorkel and mask, gliding over streets from two thousand years ago.
A Resort for the Wealthiest
In antiquity, Baiae was famous as the most fashionable resort in the entire Roman Empire. Set in the picturesque landscape near what is now Naples, it lured the Roman elite with its hot springs and mild climate. This was not a place for ordinary citizens – here, emperors and the most powerful families built their estates.
Julius Caesar erected his holiday villa here. The Piso family – one of the most influential in Rome – also had their residence in Baiae. Their story ended tragically when Nero ordered the murder of the heirs, even though he himself knew the place well. Ironically, the villas of the murderers and victims stood almost side by side.
The city had several thousand residents and covered an impressive area of almost 177 hectares. It also housed the Portus Julius – one of the largest commercial ports in the region, protected from storms by a special palisade. Thus, Baiae was not only a resort but also an important commercial hub.
The Slow Death of a City
Baiae’s fate was not sealed by a sudden catastrophe, but by a phenomenon still ongoing today – scientists call it bradyseism. These are regular, gradual movements of the ground due to volcanic activity – the magma chambers beneath the earth fill and empty, causing the land to rise or sink. In Baiae’s case, the land was steadily sinking.
The first troubling signs appeared as early as the fourth century BCE, when tectonic movements started being recorded. Residents witnessed the water level gradually rising against their homes. There was no dramatic escape or panic – the city simply sank over centuries, building by building, street by street.
Today, most of the ancient city lies about four meters below the water’s surface. The entire region is situated in a volcanic crater from ten thousand years ago, explaining both the presence of the hot springs that attracted Romans and the instability of the ground that eventually consumed their resort.
An Underwater Museum
Since 2002, the sunken Baiae has been a protected archaeological park. What makes it unique is the way it can be toured. The shallower parts of the city can be explored by snorkeling – at just a few meters deep. Deeper sections require scuba diving or a ride in a boat with a special glass hull.
Underwater, not only the foundations remain – you can see entire street layouts, the marble floors of the Protiro villa with their characteristic black-and-white pattern, and even monumental statues. Among them stands out a young Dionysus and figures referencing the Odyssey. Legend claims that the city’s name comes from Baios – a companion of Odysseus said to be buried here.
Compared to Pompeii or Herculaneum, submerged Baiae remains much less known to tourists. Yet it offers something those sites cannot – the chance to swim right next to ancient walls, touch seaweed-covered columns, and quite literally immerse yourself in history. It’s called the Neapolitan Atlantis- and the comparison could not be more fitting.
Autor
Marcus Renfell
Marcus Renfell is a historian driven by curiosity and passion. He refuses to accept the “safe,” polished versions of the past. Instead, he brings forgotten, overlooked, and distorted stories back to life. His work blends scholarly precision with the art of storytelling, turning historical narratives into vivid, page-turning experiences.
His mission is simple: to prove that history can be gripping, alive, and deeply personal.
His debut book: Women of Science. Stories You Were Never Told
In his first publication, Marcus Renfell shines a light on the remarkable women who shaped the world of science — both the pioneers whose names we know and the brilliant minds history forgot. It’s an inspiring journey through untold stories, groundbreaking achievements, and the resilience of women who changed our understanding of the world.
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